Perfumer Nancy Meiland On the Philosophy of Scent
Several years ago, a chance encounter at a London party set Nancy Meiland on an unexpected path into perfumery. An apprenticeship in Mayfair and an early introduction to real oud shaped her approach to scent as something instinctive and deeply personal. Now based in Brighton, she creates perfumes inspired by the natural world and a considered, sustainable way of working. We spoke with Nancy about how she came to fragrance, her creative process, and the ideas behind her work.
What first drew you to the world of perfumery?
My pathway through scent began with a chance encounter with a perfumer at a London party which led to me becoming her apprentice. It was a very benevolent beginning and unfolded in the heart of Mayfair at a time when there was a zeitgeist for signature scent creation. My first inhale of genuine Oud was life changing - I understood how one aroma could make us feel whole.
Could you take us through your creative process when developing a fragrance?
I love to work with natural botanicals so it fits that I should love to be in nature to form a deeper connection with naturals we use in perfumery. My collection of perfumes are rooted in the natural world and drawn from different landscapes, a particular light, season, weather or pattern. Naturals are very adaptable so I can create something working, in real time, with a client’s skin and the formula tends to emerge intuitively.
Who do you imagine wearing your perfumes?
With my ready to wear collection - I like to imagine I’m making for dreamers, mystics, romantics, nature-lovers, visionaries, free spirits, poets but they can worn by anybody!
Sustainability is so important today - how does it play a role in your production process?
We always use ethically sourced ingredients, using recyclable packaging and compostable packaging wherever possible. We create close to our shop in Brighton and try to keep everything as local as possible including the different companies we work with. We have always supported other female founded businesses and creatives in our community, connecting and collaborating.
What has been the most rewarding part of running your perfume business so far?
Seeing the business grow is a source of great pride to me, training others and being part of a team is such a thrill when I started out very solo. In essence, the moment someone falls in love with a perfume creation is at the heart of what we do at NM and always rewards us in spades.
For those of us who find the world of perfume a little overwhelming, do you have any tips for exploring new scents or brands?
Breaking down your scent discovery into different themes; statement flowers, gourmands, leather, smoky, citrussy colognes, woody and zero in on one for a while that you try in different perfume houses - this will help to connect the dots between different styles of perfume and how they expand on your skin. If a perfume doesn’t gel with you on your skin - you can still wear it on the inside of your coat or on your favourite silk scarf - it’s all about experimentation and being open to new scent stories.